I’ve always been interested in makeup. My first real experience of using cosmetics was on a family vacation to a Spanish island when I was about fourteen. I have very dark brown hair, but my eyebrows have gone sun bleached blonde. So, I asked my mom to take me to a local makeup counter where I bought my first eyebrow pencil.
My love of cosmetics started from there. I went home and started experimenting with different products. I always wore makeup at school, even though I wasn’t allowed to.
As an adult, I pursued a career as a makeup artist. My specialty was bridal cosmetics; I did other events, but my niche was weddings. I have worked with brides, bridesmaids and family members of different ages to create their makeup looks.
Create a celebrity-loved makeup brand
Before the first UK COVID-19 lockdown in March 2020 I was self-employed, but during the pandemic I was unable to work. I thought, “What can I do with myself now? Where can I put my energy?” I had already launched and dissolved a beauty brand in 2016, but since I had time to really focus on the business, I decided to try again.
I launched my beauty brand in May 2020 by purchasing 500 pairs of false eyelashes. I started promoting the business on social media and over the past six months it has really taken off. We sell around 1,000 products a day now, which is beyond what I could have dreamed of.
I’ve even seen celebrities with makeup created using our cosmetics, including Jennifer Hudson. I’m a huge fan of hers, so it was absolutely amazing and a bit surreal to see her makeup artist using my products.
Reduce the appearance of wrinkles under the eyes
I always approach fine lines and wrinkles with a less is more attitude, especially when working with mature skin. Regardless of age, the skin under the eye is thinner and more sensitive than other parts of the face, so I find that if you try to put too much product on it, it accentuates fine lines and creases massively.
When applying makeup, whether you’re putting on foundation before or after concealer, I encourage you not to apply foundation under your eye or to the side of your eyes. In my experience, if you have smile lines or creases under your eyes, too much product will probably accentuate them.
When I do my face makeup, I make sure to moisturize the under-eye area. So, I use any moisturizer and primer first, then go in with my foundation, but leave the areas around the eyes completely product-free.
Then I’ll go in with a concealer. Whatever tool I used to blend my foundation, be it a brush or a sponge, I would use the same tool to blend my concealer. Using the same applicator means you’ll pick up a bit of that foundation color and blend it in nicely; it will not look like two completely separate products.
If you feel you need more concealer to cover certain lines or creases, increase the coverage in very thin layers. When it comes to different skin tones, I would always use the same technique, just change the tone of the products.
If someone has darker eyes I would always use an eye cream first. I believe an eye cream is essential to reduce the appearance of heavy dark circles. It tends to lighten the area, then you can very lightly go over that area with concealer.
How to apply the product under the eyes
Especially with more mature clients, if there are any fine lines or wrinkles, you have to be very delicate with how you apply makeup. I find that very important. For example, I wouldn’t be so rough pushing powder.
As for the tool you use to apply and blend your concealer, I think it all comes down to personal preference. I wouldn’t say that there is one method that is always better than another.
My preference is to apply the product with a brush, then use a damp sponge to press on the concealer. Then, while this product is still damp and sitting on the skin, go in with a puff and loose powder to set the concealer. .
Some people like to use their fingertips because it warms the product up a bit more. With more mature skin, this method might work well, as it can disperse the product a little more evenly than a brush.
Choose the best product
It is essential to ensure that the entire face, especially the under eye area, is well hydrated before applying makeup. I would always recommend looking for a concealer with moisturizing ingredients like vitamin E or glycerin.
I suggest choosing a concealer with a thinner consistency. Personally, I recommend trying on testers of the product in store before buying it, to see if it feels too thick.
In my opinion, you don’t always need color correctors. Most concealers these days are quite good and can cover a multitude of things. I believe that a small amount of a good concealer, with decent coverage, is always best.
You can find great under eye products on a budget. If you’re worried that a cheaper concealer will settle in the fine lines and creases under your eyes, check the ingredients. As long as the product is hydrating, it will be effective. Concealers with more than one serum base are excellent and can be purchased for a really reasonable amount.
In my opinion, you don’t have to spend a fortune on products – makeup and beauty have come such a long way. As long as it contains the right ingredients, any brand can be as good as luxury products.
My personal choice of products to use on the under-eye area, before applying makeup, would be INKEY’s Hyaluronic Acid Serum as a moisturizer, followed by elf Cosmetics Hydrating Face Primer.
My favorite concealer is NYX Bare With Me Concealer Serum, while my favorite powder is RCMA Colorless Powder. My choice of setting spray would be Morphe’s Continuous Setting Mist and I would use Velvet Powder Puff, from Trigwell Cosmetics to set my makeup.
Adjusting your makeup to reduce wrinkles under the eyes
When setting the areas around your eyes with powder, I would always recommend using a puff over a brush. I think you have to use less product with a puff and the concealer doesn’t set into the fine lines as much as if you were using a brush.
If you’re looking to achieve an overall dewy, glowing look, I always recommend setting those under-eye areas with powder. Use a little more powder than you would on the rest of the face. If you don’t set the product with powder, the concealer will simply settle into fine lines or wrinkles.
But if you want that dewy, fresh look on the rest of the face, use only small amounts of powder everywhere else. The amount of powder you use depends on your skin type.
If you have oily skin, you might want to put some powder all over your face, as the oils will naturally come out of your makeup throughout the day. If you have a drier complexion, don’t set your face, keep it powder-free and use a small amount of a light setting spray. You can buy setting sprays that are specially designed to keep makeup in place, but also to give you a fresh and fresh look.
Zoe Trigwell, 28, is a make-up artist based in Cwmbran in South Wales. She is the founder of Trigwell Cosmetics. You can follow her on Instagram at @zoetrigwell or visit their website here.
All opinions expressed in this article are those of the author.
As Newsweek Deputy Editor Monica Greep put it.